New Boxing Tips Thread

[Mike Brewer]

The last Boxing thread went well, so I figured I'd resurrect it. This is especially in light of the people who have become regulars here that have a real focus on boxing. I'm hoping Michael Wright, for one, will contribute copiously.

I'm going to try to give out one tip at a time, but in more depth. Hopefully that will help people absorb the material.

The Jab:
Educating your jab is an essential part of a boxer's development. Amateurs probably spend a majority of their time on this single punch in most old school gyms, and for good reason! In an amateur bout, the jab alone can win the fight. It scores lots of points by virtue of pure speed and accuracy, and since points - not knockouts - are the rule of the day, that's an important contribution. For the inital post in this thread, then, we'll look at how to apply the jab in a variety of circumstances and against a variety of opponents.

Jab Types and Methods:

Rangefinder jab - This type of jab is thrown with a pure premium on speed and range. The idea is to put it on the opponent's face or body at the longest range possible, even if this is accomplished without considerable power. The strategy behind this type of jab is that it establishes your "danger range," and dissuades a cautious opponent from closing the distance haphazardly. It is probably the first tool anyone learns to use to control one aspect of distance - inward movement by the opponent - and it is a potential set-up for other tools since it marks the extension of your longest punch. To use it effectively, the rangefinding jab is best thrown against an opponent looking to establish the initiative in a bout, but who is not attempting to make the bout a brawl. The rangefinding jab can also be a great tool against counter-punchers, because it allows you to score points while maintaining the maximum possible offensive distance in order to gauge the reactions and counter-tendancies of your opponent. In other words, you can decipher what he is trying to do without committing excessively to the attack.

Stalling jab - This is most often thrown at an opponent's arms, fists, chest, shoulders; anywhere that will keep him from getting to a comfortable position to launch punches. When a boxer has to transition across his opponent's body - moving left to right or right to left as the opponent circles or sidesteps the other way - he can use a stalling jab to keep his opponent from being able to effectively punch. The strategy behind this move is to aim the punch at your opponent with enough power to stop whatever it hits in motion. It doesn't have to do damage; rather its purpose is to "hiccup" an offense by the opponent. Imagine aiming the stalling jab at an opponent's lead fist to keep him from jabbing, or aiming it as his lead shoulder to try and get him to turn his body slightly. If it causes damage, that's a bonus, but it's not the major aim. This is for positioning the other man, and for keeping you safer as you commit to footwork that would otherwise be too risky.

Stiff, or Power Jab - As the name implies, this jab is designed to cut the opponent and do damage. It is thrown with a little more hip commitment than a rangefinder or a stalling jab, and is usually aimed more precisely at the tip of the nose, the eyebrows (to cut), the front of the neck (to hit the chin), and even the temples of side-facing opponents. Use the stiff jab to set up power combinations, especially to other lines, such as a high jab followed by a body attack. The power sets the opponent back on his heels and makes him raise his guard instinctively. This can be a serious enefit if you pay attention to his habits.

Doubling and tripling the jab - Often in a bout, the opponent gets a feel for your range and rhythm. These can be hard to change, especially if you're a novice, and an opponent who figures out how to pace you can frustrate all your attempts to establish the jab. A common answer is to double or triple the jab. This is done simply by jabbing, withdrawing the fist a third to half-way back, and popping out a second jab immediately after. This is most effective when you adjust your footwork to the man's defenses or reactions to the first jab. I've found a lot of success in not only doubling up on the jab, but changing types. I may throw a stalling jab at his hands first, and then aim a second power jab higher, at his eyebrows to try and cut him. I might throw a long rangefinding jab at his belly and then try to pop a power jab to the chin as the second stroke. Sometimes, it will suffice just to put two power jabs back to back. It will depend on the opponent, and your ability to read his responses correctly. Bear in mind: When you start landing the double jab, it means you can usually land a one-two. Don't depend on the jab in place of a good power shot if you don't need to. Understand when to switch hit.

Up jab - The up jab is thrown at a diagonal upward angle designed to split the gloves of your opponent down the middle. That is, it is designed to shoot up the space between his arms when he is in a good on-guard position. The strategy is to make your opponent adjust to a new angle without sacrificing the speed and accuracy of the jab. Most often, the up jab travels in a direct line, upward from the solar plexus or hip level right ot the chin, keeping below the line of sight of the other fighter. Some schools teach it with the fist held vertically, in order to make it fit more easily between the opponent's gloves. This is my preferred method as well. Since the punch is already a sort of modified, long-range uppercut, all of the standard uppercut considerations apply. You can be countered with a hook (especially a rear hook or overhand) while throwing this, so watch out for it. If you add a little hip and leg power to the punch, it may slow down slightly, but it will pack some power. It's versatile, but once your opponent sees it a few times, it will be hard to use effectively until you get him thinking about something else. Plan accordingly.

Against someone in opposite leads - When jabbing against a southpaw (or against an orthodox fighter when you're fighting out of a southpaw stance) the jab is a less effective scoring blow than when your leads are matched. That doesn't mean it's ineffective - just less effective. You'll find that establishing your jab in this scenario requires a more educated use of footwork and timing, but here are a few tips for making it work. First, make him turn and hit him as he adjusts. Stepping around the man's lead hand (going to his left when he is in a left lead) will make most fighters pivot around the front foot. This opens a momentary window between the front hand and the chin, and if timed well, you can insert a jab on that beat. A fake in that direction with a quick step off to his power side (don't get suckered into range!) will open up his center, assuming he bites the fake and pivots as if you're really going in the direction of the first movement. Time a good stiff jab to the chin as he opens the line. You can also use stalling jabs against an off-lead (mismatched) opponent to great effect. Hammer jabs into his lead forearm and glove, and punch anytime you suspect he's about to try to jab. This fouling of his leads gets frustrating, and you may sucker him into taking a misstep to your power side. If he even so much as leans that way, nail him with a leading straight rear. In other words, throw the cross without a set up. And throw it hard. This lands more often than it misses. Finally, there is an advanced ploy for using the jab against a mismatched opponent that was made famous by Marvin Hagler. Throw a power jab to the lead side of the opponent's body. In an orthodox fighter, this will be the spleen. In a southpaw, it's the liver. One of two things usually happens - both are good for you. One, he will dip the lead elbow to deflect the jab. if this happens, pop up to the high line with a hard hook to the jaw. Throw it right at his neck. More often than not, it will wrap around his arm, now tucked conveniently down by his ribs. The second is every bit as useful, but you need to be a lot more skilled to make it work. Often, an opponent will begin to counter your low jabs with straight crosses. He will generally thow these at your head as soon as he sees you dip for the jab to the body. if you can read it and time your own counter, you'll roll under that cross (bob and weave) and drive a hard rear hook or uppercut into the rear side of his body, which he's brought into range by throwing his cross. Done right, he'll also have it all stretched out for you, and the punch will do real damage. Be ready to follow up with a head shot or a pivot in the direction of your rear side. He'll likely follow the cross with a hook, so if you can't beat him to it with a hook, you need to outmaneuver it with your pivot.

If you can manage to effectively put these basics to work, you'll have a better jab than many pros. This is "Basic Training" for your lead hand, so invest in the training. Spend six or eight weeks trying all of this stuff in sparring, and drill it to death on the mitts and the bag. And let me know if this has helped at all.


Anyone else got any tips for aspiring or practicing boxers?

[bodhisattva]

Unless you're counterpunching, don't lead with the rear.

Unless you're counterpunching, don't lead with a lead hook.

Don't let your last punch in a combination be to the body, throw at his face before backing out.


Train for excellence in covering first, then train your bob and weave and slip. When covering, you'll learn when the punches are going to arrive by feeling them, somatically, on your forearms/hands. So after you are great at covering, and no one is easily hitting you anymore, beging getting your head out of the way.

Keep your rear heel off the ground, about sa high as if a pack of cigs were laying under it flat.

Keep your lead heel off the ground, about as high as if you had a tack in it.

Old school boxing instructors would literally put a tack in some of their boxers shoes to teach them not to put their heels down. I'm sure that worked quickly!

The reason is because all your ability to move quickly and all your ability to hit powerfully lie in your raised heels. Put your heels down, and you are rooted to the earth and have to lift your weight to get out of the way of the incoming. Likewise, if your rear heel is down, where is your pivot on your powerful rear hand shots?? You don't have one, and hence much less power.

Learn to get your ass back to the center of the ring.

Put a bean bag chair out on your fighting floor and practice trying to make the other boxer fall over the chair - get it behind him and make him back pedal, after he can't be made to do that anymore, learn more complex tricks (like making him circle over it) May not be the best idea if your fighters don't know how to breakfall. Great for self defense training as ther eis most always a curb, ottoman, trash can, chair to make someone fall over and most people have no environmental awareness.

If your a little guy, make the heavy bag your best damned friend. Work out only on the proper sized heavy bag (60-80 pounds for a smaller guy) but also have a really heavy, really soft heavy bag available too. Mostly work on the one sized for you (to protect your wrists) but get at least a weekly workout on the 110+ pound bag. Work on your power, all the time. Especially your lead - work that jab for power. A boxing coach had me throw nothing but jabs for two months until I had a jab. And now my left pectoral is larger and I'm a freak - thanks Rick!

Don't workout on any bag that is hard. If you are working on a hard bag, you must hate yourself. Ringside has great 2-layer foam bags. You owe it to yourself. In our computer age, you are going to need your fingers and wrists to type. At least, for a decade or so more, I'm guessing.

Work focus mitts sparingly and work with a real partner as often as possible.

Don't beat the hell out of each other. Only crappy boxing gyms teach that way - because they don't know much about coaching. Fight "pat-a-cake" style like the old school boxing coaches called it. Keep perfect boxing speed and form, but keep the fists from being completely closed as you hit your opponent's face. Spar hard once a week when you have the skill to do it - but this will take it easy on your body and you'll find you learn faster that way as well. And you'll get to enjoy your combat sports into a much older age than you otherwise would. Be the guy still training at 50. It was actually really high level Judo players that told me that last part.

[bodhisattva]

Oh, one other:

If you're a big guy - train like you're a little guy. Strain your ears any time someone talks about the mechanics of punching and how to add power to your punches. We little guys have to train that way - we have no choice. Learn the mechanics as if you weren't a big guy at all, but a skinny 150 pound dude who knows he has to drain the tit of physics for everything it has for him if he is to survive a punching/grappling encounter. Likewise, learn to evade like a little guy. Don't say "But I'm a big guy, I can't move like that.." Tyson was a big guy, and Tyson devoted himself to moving like that. Learn to train for endurance the way little guys do - they are planning to outlast you if they can - you think the same way and train as if you are going to have to outlast someone who weighs 60 pounds more than you.

Big guys: Train like a little guy - train for endurance and learn all the mechanics as if you didn't already have a major genetic benefit.

[Michael Wright]

Great thread.

As ever Mike, that’s a storming first post, I’ll be absorbing those gold nuggets for a while I’m sure. Thank you for your invitation to contribute, in truth I have nowhere near your experience and consider myself very much to be a novice in this game, but for what its worth I’ll pitch in.

I’m going to take the detail back up a level, focus specifically on my personal experiences, and cover just three “basic truths”. The specific focus of my points will be about someone who has moved from many years in the martial arts into the wonderful world of Boxing, that’s my angle for this post.

As a premise its important for me to stress that the boxing game I have been taught and employ is specific to my natural attributes. At 6ft 1in I am unusually tall for a middleweight, just under 75kg, so my whole game based on range, movement, on the back foot, stick and move. Just think of a white Tommy Hearns, with 0.0001% of his talent and ability, and no afro.

Anyway, here are my three basic truths in this game so far:

1. MOVE!! If there is one word that I have had screamed in my face more than any other inside the boxing ring, it is the word “move”. Like many martial artists I trained for years as a world champion......in a one man fight. Put me in front of a set of focus mitts or a heavy bag and I’d hammer away all day long with monster shots, but in between those shots – nothing happened. One of the biggest lessons from boxing is that throwing your shots is only half of your job, you must always be in a constant state of movement. Always. This doesn’t mean dancing around the ring like a fairy, you’ll just burn energy doing that, instead it can be very subtle. In order for your opponent to land his best shots on you he needs three things: Base, Balance, and Position. If after you have thrown your shots you alter your position very slightly, and keep altering it constantly, it is so much harder for your opponent to become set and to unload. After you throw every shot, every combination, every attack – move! This movement can be very slight; it just needs to take your head off the line it was on, your feet slightly off the angle they were on, and to always keep the opponent guessing.

I have some footage of me training with my coach Spencer Oliver, I’m happy to post it if people would like to watch it, just so you can count how many times he says the word MOVE!

2. FOOTWORK FOOTWORK FOOTWORK. I heard it so many times in martial arts, and I thought I had good footwork, but I didn’t. The ability for your feet to operate as the transportation system to put your body in the right place, at the right time, to do the right thing – is an art form. This is so crucial for me. The guys that I get in the ring with tend to be 5ft 6in pitbulls who seem to have a sole aim of breaking my ribs or making me piss blood. You can only do so much ab work, you can only tuck your elbows in so tight – you just have to not be there. But in this constant cycle of evasion, you also have to throw your attacks and counters, you have to move but also be set to hit, and this is an art. Weight distribution, changing angles, switching directions, stepping in and out, and often most important of all – never being flat footed. As Bodhi rightly said, it is imperative that the rear heel never goes down, this is your launch pad. You know I never understood why boxers used to place so much emphasis on roadwork, I mean come on – its a punching art! But oh lord, when you are six rounds in and your calves are on fire and your quads feel like cement.....you understand.

3. LET YOUR SHOTS GO. I never believed, after 15 years of training in the martial arts, that someone would ever tell me I didn’t hit hard. The truth is I did hit hard, I just didn’t hit boxing hard. The first time my coach saw me shadow box he said “great, good form, looks lovely – but there is nothing in those shots. Let them go”. Let them go?? I was letting them go! “Why are you doing that stupid snap thing, why are you only stretching your arm ¾ of the length, LET THEM GO!” In martial arts, I trained to hit the pads, and people, in a range that made me look good. One of the first things I noticed when my coach taught me to shadow box properly...it didn’t look anywhere near as neat. But he was teaching me how to punch a person, using all of the range and mechanics my body had to offer....to knock them out. After about six months of training I was hitting twice as hard as I used to, and after a year I’d say three times as hard. I never used to have to wrap my hands, now I wrap them every time I hit anything – because I have to. I used to watch boxers fight and think “oh, he’s over committing”, until I was on the end of the shots. Boxers don’t over commit, because go back to points 1 and 2 – they move, and they have the transportation system. When they throw their shots its 100%. Everything is 100%. Everything is 100% - and that is why they are so good.

I hope this has been a useful angle as a starter for ten, thanks to Mike for the thread.

[Mike Brewer]

I thought it might be helpful to link some old boxing discussions here. That way, old information is still available. That kind of thing can be helpful at times, and at others, it's fun to see what kind of crap we all believed years ago.

The Boxing Archive

Here's What I Really Like About Boxing

Negative Calorie Diet for Boxers

Real Boxing Tips (this one got a ton of positive feedback, but it's a couple years old)

Good stuff in there, from a lot of different people. Enjoy.